Should really start at the beginning rather than here at the end, so here goes . . .
Our last post explained that we were changing our plans and going to Marree first as we were a bit concerned about rain, as the roads we needed to travel over to get to Marree and out to Lake Eyre are dirt.
Arrived at Marree mid-afternoon on Sunday and just managed to get spots for the three vans in the local caravan park, which is obviously not even slightly interested in chasing star ratings! Wandered up to the pub for a drink, which was quite pleasant and booked ourselves on a flight over Lake Eyre and the Cooper Creek on Tuesday afternoon. After tea we joined in the campfire in the caravan park, where the major entertainment was watching the local contingent of the mouse plague scamper all over the place! Was easy to pick the city tourists - they were the ones taking photos of the mice!!
Tuesday morning we all decamped and headed north west towards Muloorina Station along a dirt road which was not too bad at all. Got ourselves into the camping ground and as we were early-ish, managed to get a great spot right by the waterhole, which is fed by a bore. It is a fantastic habitat for both wetland and terrestrial birds and we were thrilled to bits with all the birds we saw. Gordon, our bird expert, kept a list and we ended up seeing some forty-four different species. There were some very exciting ones - Hardheads, Blue-billed Ducks, Black-tailed Native Hens and lots of White-faced and Pacific Herons and Intermediate Egrets. The Whistling Kites were on constant patrol, looking out for young Coots and Purple Swamp Hens which were not being kept out of harm's way by their parents.
Just a couple of photos for our bird watching friends - a Kite, an Egret and a Native Hen.
In the afternoon we piled into the two four-wheel drives and trekked out to Lake Eyre North over a track which was not too bad as long as one was sensible and did not go too fast. Arrived at the car park and walked up the sand-covered gravel ridge towards the Lake and were surprised to find that the water was not lapping at the bottom of the ridge - it was, in fact, quite a way out. Murray had taken his bathers and towel, ready for a swim so had to make do with a quick sun-bathe instead!
We walked out into Level Post Bay over salt-crusted soil until things were getting a bit soft and Gordon, to our great surprise and delight, produced a bottle of champagne, with which we duly toasted our good fortune at being in such an amazing place.
Murray decided to walk on until he got to the water, so he and Gordon went what they estimated to be another kilometre until they got to the very shallow and very saline water, where they cavorted for a bit before rejoining the rest of us. Murray brought a couple of well-salted small fish back with him as further evidence of their achievement.
Back to the cars and back over the corrugations to the camp site, where we went for a walk along the bore drain, finding yet more birds and then fired up the camp fire and unearthed the plough disc so we could barbeque our tea. What a fabulous spot! The birds continued to entertain us and the Muloorina mouse population kept the excitement levels at fever pitch by running up Sue and Pat's trouser legs.
Gordon got us out of bed early to see the beautiful sunrise - a glorious sight over the waterhole.
After an appropriate breakfast of barbeque-cooked bacon and eggs, those who hadn't walked to the source of the bore water yesterday did so and then Murray and Gordon returned there for a swim in a warm swimming hole.
Decided that we would take the vans with us into Marree when we went in for our flight, as the weather was looking a bit like the forecast of rain could well be right. Got ourselves into town and luckily managed to score a spot behind the pub, which offered free camping. Out to the air strip and Pat, Gordon, Murray and I piled into our six seater Cessna, whilst Sue and Ian got to go in a different plane. The flight went north along the Birdville Track over the Tirari Desert, passing Lakes Marion and Harry, both of which had water in them, to the Cooper Creek, where we had amazing views of the floodplain and Lake Killamperpunna. The creek has cut the Birdsville Track, so cars were lining up to take the punt. The flood waters have not yet reached Lake Eyre - they have about thirty kilometres to go and the water in the creek west of the track is left from last year's floods. The way it is spread out, I am amazed to think that it will ever get to the lake!
From here the plane followed the Cooper Creek across to Lake Eyre North, passing by some stunning salt pans on the eastern shore.
Lake Eyre is only about 50% full at the moment and locals do not think it will fill up, but it still looked pretty impressive from the air!
Flew down the Lake to Lake Eyre South, which is much smaller and dry as it is fed from two river systems which do not bring Queensland flood waters, then back to Marree. What an experience, particularly seeing the Cooper Creek in flood and spreading out over vast tracts of the desert.
Treated ourselves to tea at the pub and another bonus - Ted Egan was staying there the night so he performed four of his songs. An entirely appropriate finish to our visit.
The predicted rain arrived over night and the advice of the publican was that if we wanted to leave, we should do so sooner rather than later, particularly with Pat and Gordon travelling in the Commodore. The journey down to Lyndhurst through the mud was pleasingly uneventful, but requiring care,though when we got to the made road and stopped for a coffee it was obvious that we were carrying a fair bit of the dirt from the track on our vans!
Travelled down to Hawker, with the rain continuing and here we said goodbye to Pat and Gordon, who were travelling back to Port Augusta and then home. We, along with Ian and Sue, decided to go into Wilpena seeing as our original plans to go along the Oodnadatta Track to Coward Springs had been curtailed by the rain, so off we went. Set up camp last night and Murray and Ian devoted no small amount of time to trying to wash the worst of the mud off the vans before it set hard. Was still wet and very cold, so we hoped for better weather to come!
Today was still very cold, but dry, so three of us had a bit of a lazy day, whilst Murray went walking and conquered Mount Ohlssen Bagge. Hopefully the weather will be even better tomorrow so we can do some more walking.
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