Sunday May 20

We have managed to make it into the Northern Territory since our last post and are currently in Alice Springs, enjoying lovely day-time temperatures of 25, although the nights are a different matter altogether!  But, to get back to where we last finished . . .

On Tuesday we departed Roxby Downs and left the bitumen behind as we went north along the Borefield Road, which was in pretty good shape as a good part of it runs through the BHP Olympic Dam Mining Lease.  This is a huge area and all the way along there was evidence of preparatory work for the until-recently intended expansion of the mine.  As you can see, as we travelled further north on this road, the terrain became very flat and vegetation was much more sparse.

The Borefield Road ends where it meets the Oodnadatta Track and here we turned left and headed north-west. 

We did not travel much further before taking a coffee break at a roadside stop overlooking Lake Eyre South and amazing it was too – water in every direction! 

A short distance from here is Mound Springs at Wabma Kadarbu Conservation Park, a fascinating area where artesian water makes it up to the surface, causing mounds to form like islands in the arid landscape.  Over time, they become extinct and leave the mound as a permanent feature.  Blanche Springs sits atop such a mound and is surrounded by vivid green vegetation – quite a sight.

Next destination – nearby Coward Springs, where we camped for the night.  This fantastic spot in what was a stop on the Old Ghan Railway, is now an oasis created by its owners, with a ‘natural spa’ and a wetlands which is the result of the water flowing from the spring. 

Great facilities too – showers with water warmed by a donkey heater and beautiful old trees.  

Many wetland birds also enjoy the ‘facilities’ and we were lucky to see a pair of Brolgas, along with many gorgeous little Zebra Finches.

The old engine driver’s cottage sits beautifully amongst the protected vegetation and now houses a fascinating ‘museum’.

Wednesday was spent travelling from Coward Springs to Oodnadatta and although the track was in pretty good condition, as we went we kept discovering damage that flying stones were doing to the plastic water fittings under the van!  Stopped at Warrina Siding, with its very ruined Old Ghan railway cottage and discovered that an expedition of 21 men and 48 camels (or the other way around!) left from here in the 1890s and successfully made it to the Murchison River area of WA.  And we will think we are clever getting there in a 4WD and caravan!

By Oodmadatta we were down to one water tank and there was an interesting film of red dust inside the van.  Never mind – sitting in our chairs after dark at our out-of-town roadside stop and contemplating the enormity of a night sky with what seemed like an endless horizon and countless stars restored a sense of what is important.  I did think of you Jill!!!!!

Thursday was our last day on the Oodnadatta Track and for the sake of our water tanks it was probably just as well!  By the time we stopped for morning coffee the fittings for our other tank had also been hit and we were completely out of water.  Thank goodness for jerry cans!  Once again, the vegetation and terrain we travelled through was enormously varied – well vegetated and green one minute and then gibber plains or clay pans the next, with the odd ruin or huge old railway bridge thrown in for good measure. The red dust was ever-present and we took turns in leading so we could share it around fairly.  Ian and Sue's Hilux and van are in this dust cloud somewhere!

Lunchtime saw us emerge at Marla – back on to the bitumen and much more relaxing travel for the drivers.  After fuelling, we made it to the SA/NT border, where we took advantage of yet another roadside stop, along with many other old nomads.

Off early on Friday for the 280km to Alice Springs and a lovely journey it was too – we had forgotten how beautiful some of the scenery along here is.   Red rock ridges and hills with many beautiful casuarina and lots of mulga, all set against that amazing blue sky.  Once we had set ourselves up in the caravan park in Alice and consulted plumber Tim, Murray was off to Reece to purchase the necessary fittings to remedy our lack of water, whilst I made a start on some serious de-dusting of the van.  In the evening we wandered down to Heavitree Gap to enjoy the gorgeous little Rock Wallabies.  A couple took a particular fancy to Murray – one can only assume that it had something to do with the bag of food he had!

Yesterday we finished the chores and then did some sightseeing around the town before meeting Sue and Ian and some friends of theirs for lunch at the Olive Pink Botanical Gardens.  We were enjoying lazing around a bit and as we have all been to Alice in the recent past, we didn’t feel the need to be rushing around too much.  Enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine in the evening to celebrate Murray’s birthday – a lovely way to finish off the day.

So now I have arrived back at where I started – Sunday.  A bit more maintenance and a visit to the Araluen Cultural Precinct took care of  today and tonight we took in the sunset from Anzac Hill.  Tomorrow we will make our way up the Stuart Highway to the Devils Marbles and enjoy the sunset and sunrise there, so more about that next time . . .