Sunday July 1

Despite what I told a few of our friends about updating the blog whilst we were in Fitzroy Crossing last Sunday, it didn’t happen because we went drinking up at the bar in the caravan park instead!  I had a plan to write about Purnululu National Park and the Bungle Bungle Ranges because it was so amazing that it deserved its own blog post, but alas!  The resulting delay does not mean that it was not that special, just that I am easily diverted by a bottle of cider or two!!!!  Now we are in Derby I will remain focussed and get the blog up to date.

We again abandoned the van at Fitzroy Crossing on Monday the 25^th and took to the tent (hence the wait until now for updates), but let me not get ahead of myself . . .

We spent the 20^th, 21^st and 22^nd of June camped in Purnululu and what a beautiful and awe-inspiring place it is.  We left the vans at the caravan park which has now been established at the entrance to the park.  The 53km track into the park was a bit rough and involved a couple of river/creek crossings and gave no real indication of what was to come, as the western side of the massif is impressive, but not where the beehive domes with which we are all so familiar are located.

The Bungle Bungle Range is some 450 square kilometres and we did not realise that it does not include just the dome formations.  The western side is made up of less sandstone and does not have to contend with the sand-laden desert winds blowing in from the Tanami, so it has weathered less and in quite a different way. Mind you, it is still pretty incredible as this photo of the range at sunset taken from the lookout above Kurrajong Camp, where we spent our three wonderful but very cold nights, shows:

Our second day in the park was the one to remember.  Set off on the 34km drive to the Piccaninny Creek car park (again, we did not realise how big the park is), from which we were to explore Cathedral Gorge and The Domes, with a great sense of anticipation and as we came around to the eastern side of the massive the grandeur of the landscape was truly astounding.  No photos we had seen could prepare us for the reality and scale of what was appearing.  We stopped and took this photo before we realised what was yet to come (the red flowered grevilleas were also beautiful).

The beehive-shaped domes for which the Bungle Bungle Range is so well known are the world’s most exceptional example of cone karst formations.  They are made of sandstone deposited about 360 million years ago and erosion by creeks, rivers and weathering over the past 20 million years has carved the domes as well as the spectacular chasms and gorges.  The brochure given to visitors describes the landscape as ‘surreal’ and this is certainly apt.

The amazing orange and grey bands are caused by the presence or absence of cyanobacteria. In the grey bands, the cyanobacteria grow on layers of sandstone where moisture accumulates.  The orange bands are oxidised iron compounds that have dried out too quickly for the cyanobacteria to grow. If the surface layer is damaged, the underlying sandstone shows as a white patch and makes it vulnerable to great erosion.  Walking amongst these domes was one of the most incredible experiences I have ever had – the magnificent landscape set against the vivid blue skies we enjoy every day is a magic combination.

We walked into Cathedral Gorge, which was an impressively large amphitheatre with two huge parallel fault line lines running through it. 

Murray then walked part way along the track to Piccanniny Gorge and up to the lookout above Piccanniny Creek. 

The track followed Piccaninny Creek and the bed of the creek is an incredible swathe of sandstone.  In other areas the water and sand has eroded huge circular holes in the creek bed.

During this walk, Murray had a great view of a small snake on the path ahead of him – it ‘cartwheeled’ across the path to get away and his description to the camp host resulted in it being identified as a Death Adder.  How exciting!

Murray and I decided that we should take advantage of the helicopter trips available and spent what seemed like the quickest 30 minutes of our lives flying over the range in a tiny helicopter with no doors (I was so incredulous that I wasn’t even scared!).  Looking at the range, with its gorges and creeks and covering of spinifex, from above was fantastic and the view of the domes spread across the landscape was absolutely spectacular.  The sandstone creek beds (now dry) look like white paved roads from the sky.

Our third day involved yet more walking, this time in the northern end of the park.  Mini Palms walk was a little more challenging, so Murray and Ian set off early and were rewarded for their long trek along the rocky creek bed between soaring cliffs and livistona palms, by views down into an amphitheatre far below.

Echidna Chasm was our next walk and the sections on rocky creek bed was a major challenge for yours truly!  As always though, it was worth it and as we walked deeper into the chasm the gorge walls became more sheer and closer together until they were about an arm’s length apart.  Most of the rock in this area is conglomerate, which looks incredible.  We joined a few other walkers and sat in the gorge waiting for the short time during which direct sunlight penetrates.  Not surprisingly, the colours were superb.

A short walk up nearby Osmand Lookout provided spectacular views north west to the Osmand Range.  This range was once, according to our helicopter pilot, taller than the Himalaya.  It is very different to the Bungle Bungle Range and vegetated with spinifex and eucalypts.  Here the grevilleas were a magnificent yellow-flowering variety. Check out the conglomerate rocks in the foreground of this photo!

From Purnululu we travelled on to Fitzroy Crossing, spending a night at Mary Pool on the way.  Whilst walking along the river bed, enjoying the antics of the Rainbow Bee-eaters, we happened upon a huge native fig tree and were astounded to see how the fruit clustered on the trunk and branches rather than hanging from smaller branches.

We were once again thoroughly disconcerted by the extensive burning occurring on grazing properties we were passing through.  There is real concern about inappropriate burning regimes and arson throughout the Kimberly causing species loss and adding enormously to our carbon emissions.  We once again contemplated the fact that ignorance may in fact be bliss – being too environmentally aware certainly causes considerable agitation! Here is our view of the road ahead as we travelled towards Fitzroy Crossing:

In the afternoon Murray and I went on the excellent boat trip up Geikie Gorge.  This 14km gorge was formed by the Fitzroy River cutting its way through a 360 million year old limestone Devonian Reef and is very different to the gorges we have seen to date. 

There were lots of freshwater crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks and amazingly, up on parts of the limestone walls.

 The 25^th saw us on the road to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge, again without the vans, which we had left at Fitzroy Crossing.  Murray, Ian and Sue took the walk through Tunnel Creek.  This 750 metre long tunnel through the Napier Range is also part of the limestone reef and the walk involved some wading through the water and clambering over rocks. 

The Boab trees growing amongst the limestone were also pretty incredible!

Windjana Gorge is only about 30km from Tunnel Creek and we camped there the night.  Murray and I had a most enjoyable walk along this beautiful gorge and were thankful that the last kilometre of the track was closed due to damage from this year’s wet,as we were running out of afternoon.  We still haven’t become used to the sun setting at about 5.20! 

Windjana has also been cut through the Devonian Reef and the colours of the limestone and the reflections in the river in the late afternoon light were lovely. 

We managed a close look at a Blue-winged Kookaburra which sat very obligingly as we took photos.   Waking to the calls of these birds is quite a change from waking to the calls of the Laughing Kookaburra – the poor old Blue-wings are not quite able to wind up to a proper laugh!

Next morning Sue and Ian and Murray and I went our different ways, as it was time for them to begin the trip home.  While they travelled back to Fitzroy Crossing, we turned right and drove the short distance to the Gibb River Road.  Bell Gorge was our destination and the 100km journey up to Silent Grove campground was, once again, fascinating as we drove into the King Leopold Ranges which are quite different to the ranges we had enjoyed so much at the other end of the Gibb.

Just after we turned on to the Gibb I was rendered almost speechless (no mean feat, as my nearest and dearest  will know) by the sight of a superb Jabiru standing by the side of a small creek.  Even better, it was perfectly positioned for photos.

We spent three nights at Silent Grove, the campsite for Bell Gorge and like all the national parks campgrounds we have enjoyed here in WA, it was terrific.  Had some great neighbours and enjoyed conversations around the campfire with them.  Birds everywhere too, which caused me to spend vast amounts of time sitting under the paperbarks, which were flowering, to try and identify the many honeyeaters which were coming and going.  We could also be seen staring into the long grass by our tent trying to find a breeding male Red-backed Fairy Wren.  There were lots of females and non-breeding males, but no red and black ones to be seen!  The Double-barred, Long-tailed and Crimson Finches were much more obliging, as were the many Little Corellas which visited the campground each morning as the campers left and the Red-tailed Back Cockatoos  Here are a few results of my obsession:

 

Bell Gorge itself is an absolutely spectacular spot and once again, the challenges of the relatively short but rocky walk in were well rewarded. Bell Creek forms large rocky pools at the top of a lovely waterfall, which cascades into a large splash pool, before flowing off through the gorge into the Isdell Range. 

Whilst Murray crossed the creek and climbed down to the lower pool, enjoying a swim along the way, I sat in the shade on the magnificent red basaltic sandstone rocks, which looked as if someone had been hard at work polishing them. 

Took a drive a little further up the Gibb to visit Imintji Store on Thursday.  This is a handy spot for travellers, as it has an amazingly diverse range of supplies, diesel and also offers mechanical repairs.  We indulged ourselves and sat in the garden with an icecream, watching the not-too-frequent passing traffic.

We arrived back in Fitzroy Crossing last Friday and caught up with all the boring stuff like unpacking and washing.  Whilst the camping is going surprisingly well (due in no small part to the beautiful weather – glorious days and cold but dry nights), it was nice to be back in the comfy bed in the palace.

Arrived here in Derby yesterday and have had a bit of a look around.  Today promises to be very busy as there is a large Aboriginal art gallery, the Mowanjum Art and Culture Centre, a wetlands, a botanical trail and lots of other things to visit.  Tonight we have booked in at the ‘restaurant’ down on the wharf so we can drink wine and watch the sunset over the wharf before tucking in to a feed of barra and tomorrow we will spend most of the day on a Horizontal Waterfalls ‘seaplane adventure’.  Life continues to be tough!