Sunday March 16

Have arrived in Denmark today after our three days in the Stirling Range and Porongurup Range National Parks and as we had anticipated, they were both spectacular. I now have to abandon picking ‘favourites’ as these landscapes are so varied and so magnificent it is absolute folly to even think about comparing them.

I am currently reading ‘The Nature Principle - Reconnecting with Life in a Virtual Age’ by Richard Louv and he talks about an Australian nature philosopher (did you know that such people existed?), Glenn Albrecht, who has ‘invented’ a name for the spontaneous ecstasy or feeling of oneness with the earth and its life forces that we may experience and it is a shame that it is not a word that rolls easily off the tongue because I really need it, as well as a greater collection of adjectives after seeing all these amazing places. Glenn’s word is ‘eutierria’ (eu=good + tierria=earth), but it just doesn’t work for me – will have to keep hunting for the right one to describe that feeling.

When we arrived at the Moingup Springs campground in the Stirling Range on Thursday we hopped out of the car and the smell in the air was almost breath-taking. It had rained overnight for the first time for some three months and the incredible eucalyptus smell just assaulted us. As if we needed to be any more impressed, a large flock of Carnaby’s Black Cockatoos flew low overhead thrilling us with their strange, drawn-out calls, which are almost a whistle – nothing like the more raucous calls of the Sulphur-crested Cockatoos.

The Stirling Range (the Noongar name for the range is ‘Koi Kyenunu-ruff’, which means ‘mist moving around the mountains’ and how much nicer is that than a name honouring some British peer or admiral!) is about 80 kilometres north of Albany and the rugged peaks rise abruptly from the surrounding lowlands, most of which have been cleared for agriculture. The range stretches east-west for more than 65 kilometres – much larger than we had realised and has magnificent views of stark cliff faces and vegetation which ranges from mallee-heath to woodland and wetland as well as the threatened (yet another one!) ‘montane’ plant communities on the tops of the high peaks. More than 1,000 million years ago this area was under the sea and the layers of sediment were transformed into layers of sandstone, slate and phyllite, so it is very different to the granite landscapes in which we have been travelling to date.

Despite the cloud which still hung over some of the peaks, we enjoyed the scenic Stirling Range Drive through the park and clambered up to Central Lookout, which offered great views across the range as the cloud had cleared a little. I was just astounded by the number of species of heathland plants jammed together in these areas – so many different shades of green with a variety of shapes and textures of leaves which demanded to be touched. The range is species-rich (1,500 in fact) because of the multitude of combinations of altitude, soil, rainfall, sunlight and exposure – fascinating stuff!

Toolbrunup Peak 

Central Lookout

Vegetation - Central lookout

A Shingleback we met on the road and it was very reluctant to be moved to safety!

Dryandra (Banksia) species? Help Scott!

Wandoo woodland in a gully at the base of Mt Magog

On Friday Murray and Marilyn, the lady camped next to us, conquered Bluff Knoll – 1,095 metres high and a six kilometre return walk. The pounding his knees and ankles endured was rewarded with outstanding 360 degree views of the range.

Bluff Knoll from the car park. Murray and Marilyn climbed right to the top
of the knoll - I am impressed!

Views towards Mt Toolbrunup from the Knoll

Looking down to the car park

Murray and Marilyn atop Bluff Knoll

Whilst Murray was walking I became entranced by the number of birds around the now-quiet camp and managed to get some photos of which I am very proud. Another couple in the camp ground had cameras with what were at least 600mm lenses and I have to admit that I was consumed with jealousy.

Female Scarlet Robin

Male Scarlet Robin

Male Golden Whistler

Grey Fantail

Grey Currawong

Saturday morning saw us up and about early once again – a large number of Carnaby’s Black Cockatoos stirring and calling to one another as day breaks is a very effective and delightful alarm clock and we made the short 34 kilometre trip south to Porongurup in no time at all. The trip came with built-in challenges as we tried to identify the parrots which were feeding on the sides of the road on the grain spilt from the many trucks travelling to the port at Albany. We are certain about the Port Liclon Ringnecks and Red-capped Parrots, but less so about the Elegant Parrots.

The little caravan park at Porongurup is lovely and a great base for exploring the range. At 12 kilometres long, it is much smaller than the Stirling Range and the round-topped granite peaks are much lower.  Our ‘recce’ of the park boundary brought a close and extended look at a pair of Forest Red-tailed Black Cockatoos – what stunning (and surprise, surprise, also threatened by habitat loss and illegal shooting) birds. Morning coffee back at the van also allowed further bird watching opportunities.

Yellow-rumped Thornbill

Once the cloud cleared we set off on the walk to Castle Rock and the Granite Skywalk.  Murray’s knees had recovered and I decided that it was time to challenge my legs and this 4.4 kilometre return walk up quite a slope through marri and karri forest certainly did that. I couldn’t manage the scramble up and through the large rocks to the Skywalk though, so whilst Murray forged on, I enjoyed the viewing platform.

Balancing Rock - the last one standing in the
Porongurup Range!

The ladder up to the Granite Skywalk

Granite Skywalk and the views beyond

Granite Skywalk from below

In recognition of my efforts, we then went and visited one of the many wineries recommended by the lady at the caravan park. Porongurup is apparently now recognised as one of the country’s best riesling growing areas and Abbey Creek certainly had a couple of beauties. Their sauvignon blanc and pinot noir weren’t bad either!

Later in the day we enjoyed a shorter and easier walk through the karri forest – what superb tall, straight trees. Lots of little birds were hopping around in the now-deserted-apart-from-us carpark and were not at all worried by us wandering in their midst. The Fairy-wrens were just about jumping on our feet, so now we have photos of what we assume is yet another ‘transition’ male and are once again asking ourselves is it a Red-winged or Splendid Fairy-wren?

Karri tree reaching for the sky

Beautiful but what species am I????

Rufous Treecreeper - it was astounding to watch this bird 'hop' all
the way to top of the Marri tree

Following recommendations from the caravan park lady and other travellers, we had tea at Maleeya’s Thai Café, which was totally unexpected in a tiny town that only has a caravan park, a store and tearooms and a heap of vineyards. Maleeya’s husband Peter, who is Swiss originally, has a bamboo and palm nursery on their property (the café is in their converted garage), a herd of Highlander cattle and grows all the organic herbs used in the café. The meat is all organic and produced locally (not their cattle though – they are pets!). This was one of the best Thai meals we have ever eaten and was enhanced by conversations with Peter about timber slabs (he is an arborist) and politics – what an amazing night! Any of our friends who visit Porongorup should go and have a meal.

Maleeya and Peter

This brings us back to Sunday morning and our short trip to Denmark, where we will spend three nights. We are already missing being able to stay in a national park rather than a caravan park in town, but sometimes needs must and we will do lots of walks and exploring before moving on to Parry Beach on Wednesday. 

PS It is now Monday morning as the connection was so poor last night this would not work. Things are a bit better this morning where I am sitting outside under the annexe with the finest of drizzle falling, so here goes. . .