Sunday May 4

The busy, wonderful and action-packed week we have enjoyed with Kate and Derek, which started with an experience of the Australia we all learnt about at primary school in the 50s, as we committed the words of Dorothea Mackellar’s ‘My Country’ to heart, provides plenty of material for this update

We picked them up at Learmonth airport early in the afternoon of April 25, drove back into Exmouth to get extra snorkelling gear and pick up the van which we had abandoned at the visitor centre, before travelling the thirty kilometres to Yardie Homestead. The plan was to spend two nights here so we could enjoy the delights of snorkelling at Turquoise Bay and Oyster Stacks, in Cape Range National Park.

Things were already looking a little malevolent!

Of some concern was a weather forecast which mentioned a ‘tropical low’ approaching the Exmouth area, but we were confident that we could squeeze our planned activities in amongst any rain as it would still be warm and even went down to Ned’s Camp for a swim once we parked the van and put our stuff into the chalet.

It started raining during the evening and became quite humid, which the local geckos hunting for their dinner on the outside walls of our chalet enjoyed as we ate our more conventional tea. Overnight the rain was much heavier and it persisted during Saturday morning, challenging our optimism. 

Even the Magpie Larks were finding the rain a challenge and took refuge
under the eaves

By mid-afternoon things seemed to have eased, so as we were feeling a little hemmed in, it was decided that we would take the snorkelling gear and drive to Turquoise Bay in the hope that an opportunity for a swim would eventuate. No such luck unfortunately and we managed a view of Turquoise Bay through the rain only before deciding that this was all a waste of time and we should go back to Yardie Homestead.

The walk to Turquoise Bay

Not looking too turquoise in the rain!

By now the rain was more properly described as torrential and the few rivulets which had been running across the road forty-five minutes before were now considerably more disquieting as the rain funnelled down from the range.

The gathering flood with Cape Range in the background

The road ahead was fast disappearing

Not realising how much water was now tearing across the floodway near the Milyering Visitors’ Centre in the park we crossed and were then more than a little nervous as a substantial bow-wave preceded us. Luckily it worked out OK, but this was our last act of bravado and the next sheet of water across the road brought us to a stop. We thought about going down to one of the nearby campgrounds, Ned’s, to stop but the track had become an absolute river so that was quickly abandoned and we returned to our high spot on the side of the road to wait it out.

Road or river?

At about 7.30pm we thought we would go and check things out again as there had been a lull in the rain and the water seemed to be dispersing reasonably quickly. As it turned out, this was not the case and the rain returned with increased ferocity so back to our safe haven. Tea was dry biscuits, some of our tinned tuna cache and water – not quite what Kate and Derek had expected as the start to their WA trip!

Tea time!

Trying to get some sleep was problematic – wet beach towels as pillows, raging torrents all around, with the thunder and lightning associated with the storm which seemed to be swirling around Cape Range and not moving off anywhere else cracking overhead and illuminating the sky. It was truly amazing and now I can quote Dorothea:

‘Of ragged mountain ranges

 Of droughts and flooding rains

 I love her far horizons

 I love her jewel-sea

 Her beauty and her terror

 The wide brown land for me.’

By midnight we had not had any rain for over an hour so it was time for another check of road conditions. The first hazard seemed considerably less deep, so Derek and Murray waded through and decided it was safe so over we went, feeling very relieved.

This was not to last long however, as we then came to the next floodway, over which no water had been flowing when we came into then park. It was now a fast-flowing river full of debris and even though the water had dropped, as evidenced by the piles of red mud on the road, it was far from safe.

By now we thought it would be morning before we would be able to leave the park so decided that we would go back to the visitors’ centre where there had been other vehicles. This plan was derailed by the floodway we had crossed earlier, which was now a scene of devastation. So, back to our high spot to continue the wait and gauge the likelihood of further rain by the number of stars we could see.

At about 1.30am we were very excited to see some headlights approaching from the direction of the visitors’ centre. The water had dropped enough for one of the Rangers to get out and see what was happening. They had seen our headlights, so were aware that we were out there somewhere. Steve drove all the way out of the park to the boat ramp at Tantabiddy, then came back and told us that we would be right to get out even though there was still considerable water over the road.

Finally arrived back at Yardie Creek and our beds at 2.40am – what a relief for all! In the morning, there having been no further rain, we hitched up the van and made the journey back into Exmouth. Happily, even though we heard that there had been substantial flooding in town, the road in was fine. Our excitement was short-lived as we soon discovered that the road out of Exmouth was closed until at least Monday, so we spent the afternoon at the beach and the night back at the caravan park. Discovered that there had been some 250mm of rain in Exmouth, but Cape Range had recorded in excess of 400mm. Only 80km away at Bullara Station the rainfall had been only 86mm, so it was a very localised ‘event’. Pretty impressive when you consider that the average annual rainfall for Exmouth is only 290mm!

Monday morning dawned fine and clear and even though the official advice was that the road was still closed, they were taking ‘convoys’ along the affected part of the road to Learmonth. We quickly joined said convoy and made it to Coral Bay just after midday – a day late, but there at last.

The road between Exmouth and Learmonth

Luckily Kate had already shifted our Whale Shark and Manta Ray expeditions, so Monday and Tuesday were well occupied swimming and snorkelling around Bills Bay and Paradise Beach. As Kate was heard to say – ‘this is what we signed up for!’.

A more conventional meal!

Our Whale Shark trip on Wednesday was just fabulous. We were out for the whole day and started with a snorkel on the fringing reef just to check gear before heading out to the ocean. By early afternoon we were beginning to wonder if we were going to miss out on seeing one of these apparently elusive creatures. The spotter plane was searching and at one stage we were excited  when the chase started and got ready to go in the water, but the creature in question dived, so no go. When it surfaced, the observer in the plane realised that it was not the right sort of shark at all – it was a Tiger and not one to be swimming with. Phew!

We did eventually find a Whale Shark about mid-afternoon and then it was on. The whole operation is finely tuned – each boat (there are three licenced boats operating out of Coral Bay) carries a maximum of twenty snorkelers and they are divided into two groups. Ten of us went in, after being given strict instructions about how far away we must stay etc etc and Murray and I found ourselves deposited right above the Whale Shark. It was a flurry of fins and arms as we tried desperately to not hit it, so our and Kate and Derek’s view of this magnificent creature as it swam along was magic. We had a short time in the water, after which the next group went in and we came out. This was repeated on the other boats, then it started all over again. As it is advantageous to be the first boat to make it to the Whale Shark’s location once the plane spots it, we were pleased to be on the fastest boat!

A truly magnificent creature

This mouth can open to 1 metre wide, but luckily only to gather up plankton
and small fish, not passing snorkellers!

Only juvenile (and predominantly male) Whale Sharks visit Ningaloo, when they arrive after the coral spawns on the first full moon in April. The one we swam with was a 5 metre female and she was very inquisitive, so those of us on our boat and those on the other two boats were very lucky to get fantastic views. Each group went into the water four times to swim with her, so there was plenty of opportunities to have a good look and be entranced by the enormity and beauty of these fish. The word awesome, in its true sense, is an entirely appropriate way to describe the experience.

Every Whale Shark has a unique pattern of spots and this, along with scars from boat
strikes (a major hazard as they swim just below the surface), is how researchers identify
visiting Whale Sharks

I only managed two swims (the first two and the best I am relieved to know), as I felt fearfully seasick. Managed not to disgrace myself, but I was not a happy seafarer! If I have recommended Sea Bands to anyone, I now emphatically retract that – they must only work in Canadian waters!

The trip back was not one of my more memorable journeys, but there was a moment of joy when a pair of very small dolphins (Daniel thought maybe Spinner Dolphins) swam alongside and lept out of the water. As we had travelled some twenty nautical miles north looking for the Whale Shark we were sufficiently late back  that we got to enjoy a lovely sunset, although I passed on the celebratory champagne and Kate took the opportunity to record forever my ‘I feel like I am going to die’ demeanour!

I was feeling very nervous about the thought of a full day on another boat hunting for Manta Rays and turtles on Thursday, but was assured that as this all took place inside the reef, I would have no problems. Taking nothing for granted however, I filled myself with drugs and we did indeed have a wonderful day.

The trip again started with a snorkel on the fringing reef, where we saw some beautiful coral and lots of lovely fish, including a pair of White-tipped Reef Sharks which were partially under the rocks on the sea floor, being attended to by some Cleaner Wrasse. We then went to the Turtle Sanctuary, where we not able to get in the water, but spent some time watching many turtles come to the surface to breathe. This spot has a great deal of algae growing on the sea floor, so is a popular feeding spot. Also saw a pod of about fifteen Bottlenose Dolphins, which swam around the boat for some time.

The hunt for the Manta Rays got underway at 10am when the plane went up and compared to our wait for the Whale Shark, it wasn’t long before they located one. It turned out that there were five rays in the group, so even with the three boats as yesterday, it all worked out very well and there were four swims on offer for each group.

Unfortunately the visibility was not brilliant – caused, Murray thought, by plankton in the water rather than the recent rotten weather. Still, swimming above these creatures as they glided along was almost surreal and yet again reminded us what joy the natural world has to offer and how we must treasure and respect it at all costs.

We think this Manta Ray was about 3.5 metres wide

Waiting to be picked up 

Finished the day with another snorkel on the edge of the barrier reef, which provided a wonderful opportunity to see a Green Turtle tucked up and sleeping under a rock ledge with a couple of superb spotted fish we have not yet identified, a Blue-spotted Fantail Ray and other colourful reef fish.

A parrot fish of some sort

Sleeping turtle

Those gorgeous spotted fish!

Blue-spotted Fantail Ray

So, despite the inauspicious start, we had an absolutely wonderful time with Kate and Derek and delivered them back to Learmonth last Friday so they could catch their plane back to Perth. 

Yesterday was a bit of a lazy day spent on the beach and reading and today we are being subjected to intermittent showers, with a forecast of a possible 200mm overnight or tomorrow - something to look forward to! At least it is still warm, in fact with all this rain it has been very humid and I have had to resurrect the fan from the wardrobe. For those of you who know Cape Range and its camp grounds Murray learnt today that Ned's Camp is completely destroyed and unlikely to be re-established and the beach is simply gone! Lucky we didn't make it in there on Saturday night - we might have been washed away with the caravans which were damaged!

We will stay here until next Sunday before heading south to Geraldton and then east to begin the trek home. Hopefully the weather will improve as this will be our last real beach and snorkeling destination before going inland and ultimately back to much colder weather, so will report in before we leave.